. Emeralds Rubies Sapphires Stars & More

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. Gem Report Laboratories .. We can supply Gemological Laboratory Certificates and/or Appraisals on any gem, if requested. Many of our more expensive Gems have a Gem Identification Reports listed online. We use fully accredited Gemological Laboratories able to perform  Gemstone Identification, Diamond Grading, and Appraisals of Gems and Jewelry. Many of our Gem Identification Reports are based on the GIA  (Gemological Institute of America) "Color Stone Grading System". The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories (in Alphabetical order).   Prices for this report may range from $100 to $600, depending on how much detail you want on the report.  AGL | AGS | AGTA | EGL | GIA | GRS | GUBELIN | GUILD | LPSL | SSEF

. GIA COLOR GRADES

The Tone and Saturation Scale:
Is based on a determination of the lightness or darkness of a particular gemstone.
Tone should be considered along with the Color to properly understand the depth of color in the gem.  Even though it may have good primary color, if it's too light in tone, it will not be rich enough... or... if the color is too dark, it will sacrifice brilliancy and transparency.
Saturation should be considered along with the Color and Tone to properly understand the amount and evenness of the color that is saturated throughout the gem.
 

Understanding the GIA type Colored Stone Grading System :
Here's how a gemologist evaluates a gemstone's hue, tone, and saturation, using the GIA type colored stone grading system :

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. GIA CLARITY GRADES

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Type I - CLARITY SCALE

Exceptional	Very Good	Good	Fair	Poor
VVS	VS	SI	I1... I2	I3
Very Very Slightly Included	Very Slightly Included	Slightly Included	Included	Excessively Included

The list includes Aquamarine, Beryl (green, pink & yellow), Citrine, Chrysoberyl (except Alexandrite), Kunzite, Morganite, Spodumene, Tanzanite, Topaz (colorless & blue), Tourmaline (green), Zircon (blue & colorless), and Zoisite

• VVS, Type I - describes Gems that are as close to flawless as is found in the particular type I gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions cannot see any inclusions at ten power magnification, and/or, have no internal characteristics observable under magnification, but which have minor surface blemishes that do not penetrate the stone, and/or, have very small inclusions which are difficult for a gemologist to see at 10x magnification.
• VS, Type I - describes Gems that are near flawless for the particular type I gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions will see  very small inclusions which can be difficult to observe with 10x magnification.  These small inclusions are barely visible to the unaided eye, except on emerald cut and larger Gems.
• SI, Type I - describes Gems that are very slightly included but the inclusions are not easily visible to the unaided eye and not a negative for the particular type I gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions will see small inclusions that are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification.  Inclusions are difficult to see with the unaided eye, except on larger stones or occasionally with Emerald Cut Gems.
• I1 to I2, Type I - describes Gems with medium to large inclusions (Piques) which are usually obvious to a gemologist with the unaided eye.  An I1 may have an inclusion located to the side while an I2 will have it centrally located or numerous inclusions. Small inclusions that are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification.
• I3, Type I - describes Gems with very obvious inclusions that are very visible to the unaided or naked eye without any magnification.  This grade of excessively Included gem normally has durability problems and should be avoided.

Type II - CLARITY SCALE

Exceptional	Very Very Good	Very Good	Good	Poor
VVS	VS	SI	I1... I2	I3
Very Very Slightly Included	Very Slightly Included	Slightly Included	Included	Excessively Included

The list includes Alexandrite, Amethyst, Andalusite, Apatite, Citrine, Diopside, Feldspar, Garnet (all colors), Iolite, Opal (Fire), Peridot,  Quartz (all colors), Ruby, Sapphire (all colors), Spinel (all colors), Topaz (all colors except blue), Tourmaline (all colors except green & watermelon), and Zircon (all colors except colorless & blue)

• VVS, Type II - describes Gems that are as close to flawless as is found in the particular type II gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions can see small inclusions (small feathers, light silk, etc.) which are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification, but you will probably not readily see these inclusions to the unaided eye, except on larger stones.
• VS, Type II - describes Gems that are near flawless for the particular type II gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions can see small inclusions (small feathers, light silk, etc.) which are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification, but you will probably not readily see these inclusions to the unaided eye, except on larger stones and in certain color gems with characteristics that typically have visible inclusions like Ruby, Padparadscha Sapphire, Yellow/Golden Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Rubellite Tourmaline, and a few others.
• SI, Type II - describes Gems that are very slightly included but the inclusions are not easily visible to the unaided eye and not a negative for the particular type II gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions can see medium to moderate inclusions that are usually visible to the unaided eye without magnification.  Inclusions are generally located to the side or in the pavilion area where they may not be obvious when mounted in jewelry until you take a closer look.
• I1 to I2, Type II - describes Gems that have inclusions centrally located or numerous inclusions that are visible to the unaided or naked eye without magnification.  Most Ruby will be in the I1 to I2 category.  
• I3, Type II - describes Gems that have very obvious inclusions that are very visible to the unaided or naked eye without any magnification.  This grade of excessively Included gem normally has durability problems and should be avoided. It is doubtful you'll ever see this poor a grade on our website.
   
   

Type III - CLARITY SCALE

Exceptional+	Exceptional	Very Very Good	Very Good	Poor
VVS	VS	SI	I1... I2	I3
Very Very Slightly Included	Very Slightly Included	Slightly Included	Included	Excessively Included

The list includes Emerald, Beryl (red), and Tourmaline (watermelon)

• VVS, Type III - describes Gems that are as close to flawless as is found in the particular type III gemstone, a gemologist under favorable lighting conditions can see small inclusions (small feathers, light silk, light gardin, etc.) which are usually obvious when viewed with 10x magnification, but you will probably not readily see these inclusions to the unaided eye, except on larger stones.
• VS, Type III - describes Gems that are very clean for the particular type III gemstone, a gemologist can see small sized inclusions (small fissures, light gardin, etc.) that is usually visible with the unaided eye without magnification.  Larger Emeralds can have medium sized inclusions and still be graded VS Type III.
• SI, Type III - describes Gems that are lightly included but the inclusions are not a negative for the particular type III gemstone, a gemologist can see moderate and/or numerous small inclusions (fissures, gardin, carbon, etc.) that are visible to the unaided or naked eye without magnification.
• I1 to I2, Type III - describes Gems that have inclusions centrally located or numerous inclusions that are visible to the unaided or naked eye without magnification.  Most Good quality Emerald will be in the I2 to I3 category.
• I3, Type III - describes Gems that have very obvious inclusions that are very visible to the unaided or naked eye without any magnification.  This grade of excessively Included gem normally has durability problems and should be avoided.  It is doubtful you'll ever see this poor a grade on our website.

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. TREATMENTS

AwesomeGems.com strongly supports and meets the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) requirements to disclose gem treatments and/or offer accurate descriptions, and we have been disclosing gem treatments and offering accurate gem descriptions for many years.  Not only do we disclose gem treatments on the same page as the listed gem, but it's listed directly under the gem "and" it has an additional link to a full explanation of the particular treatment method (if any).  AwesomeGems.com also offers accurate descriptions of each gem or jewelry piece listed.  You will find that our "Enhancement Codes and Treatment Terms" explain the majority of treatment methods used in the Gem Trade.  Many of the gems we offer are "Natural" and "untreated", but the majority of the gems on the market are routinely enhanced or treated in some way, so we have always been concerned in disclosing any treatments that we know may exist as well as the affect it may have on the gem you are considering.
We disclose the particular treatment that may apply to a particular gem, both in our online description as well as at the point of sale.
 

TREATMENT Codes & Method Table

code A:	Indicates that  this gemstone has no known enhancement, or, this type of gem is very rarely enhanced.
code E:	Means that this gemstone is routinely enhanced, by one or more of the methods below.
code N:	Indicates that this gemstone has no known enhancement. The seller may guarantee this by providing a gem identification report (if requested at time of sale) and this may be at additional cost from an accredited graduate gemologist.
Coated:	Indicates a Coating has been used as a surface treatment such as waxing, lacquering, enameling, inking, foiling, or sputtering of films to improve appearance, provide color or add special effects. This treatment is not considered to be permanent since the coating can be easily scratched off, so as a result it may create special care requirements, which we feel seriously reduces the value and therefore should affect your buying decision.
Diffusion:	Indicates the gemstone has undergone Diffusion (or Bulk Diffusion) which is the use of one or more chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to produce a relatively shallow subsurface layer of color and/or asterism producing inclusions. This treatment is not considered to be permanent since it only affects a relatively shallow subsurface layer of the stone. If the diffused layer is scratched, chipped, polished, etc., the original color becomes visible under the shallow layer of color, so as a result it may create special care requirements, which we feel seriously reduces the value and therefore should affect your buying decision.
Dye:	Indicates Dyeing has occurred.  Dyeing is the introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it new color, intensify present color or improve color uniformity.  This treatment is normally not permanent and/or it may create special care requirements, which we feel seriously reduces the value and therefore should affect your buying decision.
Epoxy:	Indicates a hardener was used to seal the surface of porous gem material with a colored or colorless Epoxy-like material.  This is typically performed to improve appearance and/or durability of the gem as well as prevent inclusions from fracturing.  This treatment method is permanent and normally does not create special care requirements.
Heat:	This means the stone has been heated to effect desired alteration of color, clarity, and/or phenomena.  Much of the Aquamarine, Citrine, Kunzite, Morganite, Tanzanite, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Golden Sapphire, Orange Sapphire in the market  is routinely heat treated. This treatment method is permanent and normally does not create special care requirements. Heating enhancement has been an accepted trade practice for generations and normally it does not adversely affect the value of the gem, however, in recent years demand for unheated top quality Ruby and Blue Sapphire has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem.
Irradiation:	Indicates the gemstone has undergone some form of gamma or electron Irradiation (in some cases, in conjunction with heat). Gamma or electron Irradiation typically either induces color centers to alter a gemstone's color or changes the valence state of  impurities to improve the clarity. Gems routinely treated with this method are: Aquamarine (to produce dark blue Maxxie beryl), Colorless Beryl (to turn it green or yellow), Morganite (to deepen the pink color), Opal (to induce an orange-yellow body color), Diamond (to produce various colors), Quartz (to produce Smoky Quartz, Citrine, Amethyst, Amethyst-Citrine or Ametrine, and green-"gold" stones), Topaz (to blue and yellow), Pink Tourmaline (to produce Hot Pink and Red or Rubellite), and pale pink Kunzite (to lavender). Some of these irradiation-induced colors (e.g., Kunzite, Maxi Blue Topaz, and Yellow Beryl) may fade over time. This treatment method is considered to be permanent and normally does not create special care requirements.
HPHT:	Indicates the stone has been been heated while under pressure to effect desired alteration of color and/or clarity. HPHT diamonds, are natural diamonds that end up almost pure and flawless. The process basically speeds up the earths process of forming a diamond by squeezing a diamond to pressures of around 60,000 atmospheres. This "high pressure high temperature" treatment is most usually performed on off white diamonds that have some inclusions, and after the enhancement process the stone will be a more desired color with near flawless clarity. This treatment method is permanent and does not create special care requirements.
Laser:	Indicates the stone has been laser drilled and chemicals were used to reach and alter the inclusions in the gem.  This treatment is rarely performed on color gems, but is most often performed on diamonds that have obvious inclusions, after the treatment the stone will appear to have less obvious inclusions. This treatment method is permanent and normally does not create special care requirements.
Oil:	This means the surface-breaking cavities were filled by immersing the gemstone in a colorless oil, wax, natural resin, or man-made resin material  that penetrates into the fissured or porous gemstone.  Traditionally, such fillers have been oils of various types, cedar-wood oil being a common one, and today, resins like Opticon are also used.  This type of enhancement process is one of the oldest in the business, with reports on it dating back over 600 years.  Some oils can come out of the stone if heated too much, but lightly enhanced ones and those filled with resins rarely change.  This enhancement processes is an accepted trade practice that does not normally affect the performance, and durability of the gemstone, and it does not create special care requirements.

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. Gem Hardness

The following table shows MOH's Hardness in relation to Simple and Cutting Hardness.
MOH's hardness is a relative scale.  It shows which mineral scratches another mineral.

(cutting hardness in water according to A. Rosiwal).

MOH's  Hardness	Mineral used for comparison	Simple Hardness	Cutting Hardness (A. Rosiwal)
10	Diamond		140,000.00
9	Ruby, Sapphire, Alexandrite, Chrysoberyl		1,000.00
8	Aquamarine, Emerald, Morganite, Spinel, Topaz		175.00
7	Amethyst, Citrine, Garnet, Iolite, Kunzite, Peridot, Tanzanite, Tourmaline, Zircon	Scratches window glass	120.00
6	Diopside, Lapis lazuli, Orthoclase, Turquoise	Can be scratched with a steel file	37.00
5	Apatite, Obsidian, Sphene, Glass	Can be scratched with a knife	6.50
4	Coral, Fluorite, Pearl	Can easily be scratched with a knife	5.00
3	Calcite, Ivory	Can be scratched with a copper coin	4.50
2	Amber, Gypsum	Can be scratched with a fingernail	1.25
1	Talc	Can be scratched with a fingernail	0.03

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COLOR	CLARITY	CUTS
ANNIVERSARY CHART	VIEW OUR GEM STOCK	BIRTHSTONE CHART
GEM  FACTS	FINE  JEWELRY	DIAMOND FACTS

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. Birthstones

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. Anniversary Gemstones

. Gemstone Facts Click any main UNDERLINED TITLE to View Gems

 If you don't know who to contact, here are a few links to Accredited Gem Labs:

VIEW OUR ALEXANDRITE GEMSTONES

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AMETHYST

THE BIRTHSTONE for FEBRUARY
The 6th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Amethyst was used as a decorative stone in Egypt. Beads, amulets, and seals were made of this gemstone, and it was highly valued in ancient Greek and Roman societies. An Amethyst was the ninth stone in the breastplate of the high priest of Israel and one of the ten stones on which the names of the ten tribes of Israel were engraved.

In medieval times Amethyst graced royal crowns and bishop's rings. A huge round Amethyst adorns the British royal scepter, set for the coronation of James II (1633-1701), and another remarkable Amethyst surmounts the sovereign orb. Brazilian Amethysts appeared on the European market in 1727 and became highly fashionable and expensive. Amethyst was very popular during the eighteenth century in France and England. A necklace of Amethysts was purchased at a very high price for Queen Charlotte (1744-1818), wife of George III of England. Soon after the price declined as amethysts from Ural Mountains deposits (discovered in 1799) and Brazil increased the supply.

Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Zambia, U.S., Canada, India, Sri Lanka and Madagascar.

TREATMENTS - Typically Amethyst is not treated.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Amethyst jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

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AMETRINE

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APATITE
5 on the MOH's scale of hardness

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AQUAMARINE

THE BIRTHSTONE for MARCH
The 19th ANNIVERSARY STONE
7.5 to 8 on the MOH's scale of hardness

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BERYL

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CHRYSOBERYL

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CITRINE

THE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER
The 13th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Citrine, a member of the Quartz mineral family, and is a Quartz whose color is probably caused by Iron traces.

The Citrine name is derived from the French Citron, meaning "lemon", an allusion to it's color. 

Color ranges from medium yellow to medium-dark orange-yellow.  Madeira Citrine's color ranges from medium-dark orange-yellow to Root Beer. Citrine is often fraudulently sold as topaz, whose color is richer. Due to it's lack of cleavage, however, citrine is actually tougher, wears better, and is less expensive. Most Citrine is relatively free of inclusions. 

Citrine was considered a gem during the Hellenistic Age in Greece (323-280 B.C.) and was moderately popular for intaglios and cabochon ring stones through the first and second centuries A.D. in Greece and Rome. It has had ongoing use in jewelry but has never achieved the prominence of Amethyst.

Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Bolivia, and Madagascar.

CARE - It is usually safe to clean Citrine jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Citrine jewelry.

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EMERALD

THE BIRTHSTONE for MAY
The 20th and 35th ANNIVERSARY STONE

Emerald, the first stones were mined in the deserts of Egypt near the Red Sea in what were known as Cleopatra's Mines.  Egyptian Emerald mined today are small and dark stones.  Sources for this gemstone are Colombia, Africa, and Brazil.
Emerald is a member of the Beryl mineral family, along with Aquamarine, Golden Beryl, Goshenite, Bixbite and Morganite. The name for Emerald is taken from the Greek smaragdos, meaning Green stone.  Chromium, vanadium, and iron are the trace elements that give emerald it’s color.  The presence or absence of each and their relative amounts determines the hue, tone, and saturation of an emerald.  Generally, the higher the chromium or vanadium content, the more intense the green color. As iron content decreases, so does emerald’s degree of blue.  When iron content is relatively high, emerald is a bluer green. When iron content is relatively low, emerald is a purer green.  Emeralds can be very strong bluish green to green hues, although some emeralds may be very slightly yellowish green.  The most desirable emerald colors are bluish-Green to Green, with strong to vivid saturation and medium to dark tone.  If the hue is too yellowish or too bluish, the stone is not emerald, but a different variety of beryl.  As with other colored stones, a well-trained eye is normally required to recognize the sometimes-subtle variations that make significant differences in emerald value.  Inclusions are generally accepted in Emeralds since all but the rare few have visible inclusions of Mica, Pyrite or Calcite or the "garden" type inclusions.  The most prized emeralds are highly transparent, with evenness of color, and with no eye-visible color zoning.  Inclusions can be important in separating natural from synthetic emeralds as well as for identifying the country of origin.

TREATMENTS - Virtually all Emerald on the market has some sort of surface-reaching fractures and openings. The visibility of the inclusions is reduced by filling them. Traditionally, oils (such as cedarwood oil) are used but in time they tend to dry out thus making the inclusion more readily visible again and the gem would require another oil bath.  Today, natural resin or wax type materials are preferred over the traditional oils, since the resin or wax is a natural substance with more of an almost permanent treatment life.  Emerald enhancement processes date back over 600 years, and oil, natural resin, or wax type treatments are accepted trade practices that do not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so you can expect all Emeralds will have some type of enhancement.  There's no need to worry when you see these enhancements disclosed.
CARE - Emeralds must be treated with care to prevent chipping.  Emerald jewelry should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Emerald jewelry.
We only feature and offer Natural Emeralds.
The vibrant Green incomparable beauty is reason enough for owning this Gem.

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GARNET

THE BIRTHSTONE for JANUARY
The 2nd ANNIVERSARY STONE

Among the rarest Gems in the world is the Color Change Garnet.   Only with our direct connections are we able to bring you the finest Color Change Garnets  that command substantial prices.  There are very few stones in the worldwide market. 

Color Change Garnet is a very highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

Pyrope Garnets are the most common on the market.  They are typically Red with a brownish tint, or Brick Red in color.  Pyrope is sometimes called "Cape Ruby" and sometimes confused with Almondine and Spinel.  Pyrope Garnets are tough wearing stones, so an excellent choice for jewelry.

Rhodolite is the name used to describe the lovely pinkish, purplish or lavender Red Garnets which are a mixture of Almandite and Pyrope. This name was first used in the late 1800's to describe the new rhododendron shade of Garnets discovered in North Carolina.
Rhodolite Garnets are not as dark as the common Pyrope Garnets.  Rhodolites are normally African in origin and are bright, transparent Gems.  Rhodolites are usually Red stones, purplish Red and the popular Raspberry Rhodolite, rich Purple with bright Lavender highlights.  Prices are based on the color, size and clarity of the stone.

Green Demantoid Garnet is one of the rarest Garnets. Discovered in Russia in 1868, the  supply was consumed in jewelry by 1896.  Production now is limited to a few stones a year. Utilized in Art Nouveau jewelry during the turn of the century.  Demantoid is important to Gem aficionados for four reasons: its great rarity, its color, its high dispersion and its distinctive inclusion.  Dispersion, or the breaking of White light into spectral colors, is measured at 0.044 for Diamond and 0.057 for Demantoid.  Demantoid's name means "diamond" in German, an indication of its beautiful luster.  Demantoid deposits of lesser material exist in San Bonito County, California, the Piedmont area of Italy, Iran, Nambia, Korea, the Congo and the Stanley Butts area of Arizona, but because the original locality for demantoid was in Russia’s Ural Mountains, the Russian material remains the standard by which the gem is judged.  While the color of demantoid never equals that of the finest emerald, an emerald-green is the ideal.  The color should be as intense as possible, without being overly dark.  Many stones are in the yellowish-Green range with lesser qualities being brownish Green of grayish Green.  The color of demantoid is believed to be due to chromium.  It should be noted that the fire in a demantoid is best seen in the lighter, less saturated gems. Thus color preference is a matter of individual taste.  Some people will choose an intense body color and less fire, while others prefer a lighter body color and more fire.  Demantoid garnet generally looks best under daylight.  Incandescent light makes it appear slightly more yellowish-green.  Because of its high dispersion, demantoid looks great in the same type of lighting as diamond, i.e., multi-point (as opposed to diffuse) lighting.  Demantoid is relatively clean, thus when buying one you should look for an eye-clean or near-eye-clean stone.  Demantoids exhibit a unique Byssolite inclusion called a "horse tail."  This inclusion is formed by Asbestos, needle-like fibers which radiate from a central crystal, usually Chrysolite, in a curving style similar to a horse's tail.  Gem cutters often fashion a Demantoid to better show the inclusion since this is a definite characteristic of a Demantoid.  Generally you will only find  round brilliant, oval, or cushion cuts.  Typically crystals are small and not plentiful, generally under 1 Carat.  Demantoid is rare in faceted stones above 2 cts.  Fine demantoids above 5 carats can be considered world-class pieces.  Some demantoid garnet is heat-treated to improve the color, and the resulting stones are stable under normal wearing conditions.  Demantoid is among the most expensive of all garnets, but like all gem materials, low-quality (i.e., non-gem quality) pieces may be available for a few dollars per carat.  Prices for demantoid vary greatly according to size and quality, but gem quality stones with no enhancement may reach as much as $10,000 per carat.  Demantoid Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

The Grossular Garnet species incorporates many colors: Colorless, Yellow, Green, Orange, Brown, Pink and Black. Of course there are many variations and shades of these colors.  Pure Grossular is Colorless.  Grossular Garnets can have a particular inclusion which is an identifying characteristic. A treacle or swirly appearance created by tiny included crystals, generally Diopside crystals, is common to Grossular Garnets.
Sources for Grossular Garnet are Sri Lanka, Canada, U.S., Mexico, Africa, Australia and Brazil.

Grossular Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

Part of the Grossular Garnet species.  Hessonite Garnets are available in Yellow, Orange and Red/Orange. The Red/Orange Hessonite is often referred to as "Cinnamon" stone because it matches the color of oil of cinnamon produced in Ceylon.  Our source for Hessonite Garnet is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Garnet.  Other sources are Canada, Mexico, U.S., Brazil and Africa. 

Hessonite Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.

Tsavorite is the intense Green Grossular Garnet named after the Tsavo National Park in Kenya.  Tsavorite was first discovered in 1967 and was named by Henry B. Platt, vice-president of Tiffany & Co., after the site of that find.
Tsavorite is often compared to other Green Gemstones, and it is easily a match for the better known Emerald. Actually Tsavorite is superior to the Emerald in many ways, and it is a rarer stone. Tsavorite is a tougher, more durable stone with a higher luster, resulting in a higher polish.  It also has a higher refractive index, 1.74 for Tsavorite compared to 1.57 for Emerald, so Tsavorite is the brighter stone for setting with Diamonds since the Tsavorite will display more sparkle and fire.
Shades vary from pure Green to yellowish Green.  Like Emerald, most Tsavorites will have some visible inclusions.  Most Tsavorite production is under 1 Carat.  A 2 Carat Tsavorite is considered large!

Tsavorite a is a valued Collectors Gemstone due to its rarity and its beauty.

Spessartite Garnets are not commonly found on the market.  Their vivid Orange color, sometimes with a Orange-Red to Orange-Pink color, is the most desired.  This Gem is especially Rare in clean faceted stones larger than 3 carats, and Gems over 10 carats are extremely Rare. The labor involved is arduous because the crystals are buried in pockets in pegmatites, once molten lava, and the miner slowly moves from pocket to pocket to retrieve the crystals.  Spessartite has good transparency, considerable luster, and normally found in Mixed or Oval cuts.  This Gem received its name from the area in Spessart, Germany, where it was originally found in the 1800's.  Since all Garnets are tough wearing stones, Spessartite is an excellent choice for jewelry. 

Spessartite a is a valued Collectors Gemstone due to its rarity and its beauty.

The latest discovery in the Garnet family. From Mali, Africa, these attractive Garnets are a rare mixture of Andradite and Spessartite and only came into the market in late 1994.  Mali Garnets are much rarer than Tsavorite Garnets.  All are a bright, uniform light yellowish Green. These are extraordinary stones that are expected to increase in value.

A combination of two Garnet species: Pyrope and Spessartite. This Orange Garnet has an unusual history. In the late 1970's, East African miners included this Orange and reddish Orange stone in parcels of Rhodolite Garnet being offered to Japanese dealers. The "off" colors, summarily rejected for their obviously different color, were contemptuously called Malaya by the miners. This Swahili word means outcast or prostitute.  German and American dealers saw the beauty of this "outcast" Gem and began marketing Malaya Garnet in 1979. Top color Malaya Garnets are pure Orange or Red/Orange, sometimes with a touch of Peach. These vibrant stones are beautiful especially when mounted in Jewelry.

This "Sunkist" Orange Garnet is a newcomer to the Gem Markets.  Discovered in 1992 in Namibia near the north border with Angola, Mandarin Garnet is mined in wasteland conditions. Temperatures have been known to reach 140°F in a desert area populated by Angolan soldiers who have fled their homeland.  Mandarin Garnet is part of the Spessartite Garnet species and has a hardness of 6-6.5. Its uniform, vivid color of pure Orange sets it apart from other Orange stones.  Garnets take a good polish, so this is a beautiful Gem for mounting.  Potential for this Gem is good because jewelry demand will grow due to its vivid color and brightness.

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IOLITE

The 21st ANNIVERSARY STONE

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KUNZITE

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MORGANITE

THE PINK EMERALD
THE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

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PERIDOT

THE BIRTHSTONE for  AUGUST
The 16th ANNIVERSARY STONE

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RUBY

THE BIRTHSTONE for JULY
The 15th and 40th ANNIVERSARY STONE
The 80th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

Ruby hues range from strongly purplish-red to orangy-red.  The finest ruby has a slightly purplish-red to pure vibrant red hue.  As the hue becomes more purplish or orangy, the ruby moves down the quality scale into good and commercial ranges. The highest-quality rubies have  vivid saturation.  Medium tone to medium-dark tones are preferred as long as the tone is not so dark that it has a negative effect on brilliance.  At the other extreme, if the tone is too light, the stone is considered pink sapphire, even if saturation levels are high. The most valuable ruby colors are red (R) to slightly purplish red (slpR) with medium (5) to medium-dark (6) tones and strong (5) to vivid (6) saturation.  Typically these are called Cherry Red to Pigeon Blood Red colors.  Chrome imparts the Redness to Ruby.  Here are charts showing the GIA master hue/tone/saturation to determine if corundum is ruby, or if it’s pink, purple, or orange sapphire.  Gem Laboratories that use the GIA scale, grade on the principle that red must be the dominant hue before a stone can be called a ruby, and since identification of the dominant hue is subject to personal perception, in some areas of the world pink sapphires are considered rubies.  Ruby is an excellent choice for jewelry and has a high refraction which produces a bright stone.  Ruby's relative density is high, so a one Carat Ruby will be smaller in millimeter dimensions than a one Carat Diamond.
We typically offer only the finest Burma and Ceylon Rubies.  The Mogok region in Burma, or Myanmar, is the source historically for the finest Rubies.  Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and Mong Hsu Burma Rubies are what we would consider the regions producing the next to the finest grade Ruby, whereas Rubies from Thailand, Africa and Vietman are typically in the commercial grade of Ruby.  Facet grade Ruby stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shapes.  Native cutters take liberties with the cutting of the pavilions or back side of Rubies to produce larger stones by lifting out dark inclusions, sometimes leaving small cavities (or divets), allowing the culet or bottom point to be a little bit off-center, or by having deeper or shallower than ideal pavilions. Generally these minor points are not noticeable when the stones are mounted, and generally they do not affect the price. Precision cuts required for designer jewelry are cut by strict standards, and consequently the cutting adds to the overall cost of the item.
Ruby was the first mineral to be produced by commercial Gem synthesis and dates to the 1880's.  Many customers have brought family heirlooms for insurance only to be told that their "Gem" is not a natural stone, so just because it's old doesn't mean it's the real thing.  We have only genuine natural Ruby, so you will not find synthetic Ruby, among our Gemstones.
TREATMENTS - Over 99% of all Ruby on the market is heat treated, to stabilize and/or enhance the color and/or clarity.  The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.  The typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Ruby from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) normally refers to the lower temperature wood 'blow' heat method, whereas and the typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Mogok, Myanmar, MongHsu, Thai, Vietnamese, and African Ruby usually refers to the high temperature furnace fired method.  Both heating methods are accepted trade practices, and have been for many generations.  The heat treatment process is permanent and does not adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Ruby has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem.  We take pride in finding and featuring many of these non-heated natural Rubies.
COLOR - The most important factor in the value of a RUBY.  The top qualities are as red as you can imagine: a saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or blue.  After color, the other factors which influence the value of a ruby are clarity, cut, and size.  There are many variables in colored gem pricing because it's not a controlled market like the diamond market is.  One dealer may sell an Ruby of the same quality at one price and another dealer may sell that same Ruby for another price.  There is no price guide as in diamond purchasing.  Whatever a dealer can get for that rarer colored gem is what it's worth and if he wants to hold out for a certain amount of money he just  has to hope he's making the right move.  So you need to be educated enough to know what you're doing!  Since we cut out these middleman dealers, you can expect to get a great quality stone for considerably less.
CARE - It is usually safe to clean Ruby in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Ruby jewelry.
Rubies are an excellent choice for investment that are today still more valuable and rare than even the top quality colorless diamonds.  Natural "unheated" top quality Ruby never decreased in true value and remains a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

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STAR RUBY

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SAPPHIRE

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for APRIL (White)
THE BIRTHSTONE for SEPTEMBER (Blue)
ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)
ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)
The 5th and 45th ANNIVERSARY STONE
The 70th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

Although everyone has heard of the fabled Burmese Kashmir Sapphire, few have ever seen one.  We constantly see appraisals that refer to Kashmir Sapphire, but it's just about always refers to a top gem quality Deep Royal Blue Ceylon Sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon).  Once in a great while we are able to acquire a real one, but since the mine has been depleted and these highly prized stones are old stones that are simply brought back onto the market, they don't last long.  Authentic Kashmir Sapphires carry a particularly high cost per carat and are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones.
There are an array of color grades, and prices, and sometimes it's difficult to know what quality of color to expect in stones at various prices. Kashmir Blue Sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) also carries a particularly high cost per carat and these are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones, especially when they are in the super rich Velvety Royal Blue color.
The Blue Sapphire color next on the popularity scale is Cornflower Blue.  The Cornflower Blue or Medium Blue color shades vary but all usually allow more light into the stone for a brighter appearance, so these stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shape to make it as brilliant as possible.  Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone.
We prefer to use the GIA Colored Stone Grading System, this is an exceptionally good method for noting the quality of color stones. In commercial grade blue sapphire, you can expect to see the hue range from violet (V) to a very strongly greenish blue (vstgB), and tones will range between 2 and through 8, but less of a saturation range. Saturation in the commercial grade is usually from 1 to 3. Gem Quality blue sapphires usually narrow in the range of hues. The hues usually range from violet (V) to a very slightly greenish blue (vslgB), and their ranges of tone can be somewhere between 3 and 7, but optimum choice is between 4 to 6. Saturation in the Gem Quality grade can be from 3 through 5, but again the optimum is 4 to 5.  In Top Gem Quality blue sapphire, the hues can range from a bluish-violet, or violetish-blue, or pure blue (bV, vB, or B). Tone should be between 5 and 7, and saturation should be 5 or 6. The examples in the diagram are bV 5/5 to 7/5, vB 5/5 to 7/5, and B 5/5 to 7/5, and B 6/6.

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STAR SAPPHIRE

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for AUGUST

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SPINEL

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER (Blue)
The 22nd ANNIVERSARY STONE

Red Spinel has been confused with Ruby throughout history. Modern gemologists have identified Red Spinels in the Crown Jewels of England, Russia and Iran. If you have ever been to London and seen the British Crown Jewels, you would have noticed a giant red gemstone set in the center of the Imperial State Crown. This stone, quite possibly the most famous gem in the entire world, is the Black Princes Ruby. It is as large as a chicken egg, weighing approximately 170 carats, and measuring five centimeters in length, the Black Princes Ruby is a spectacular red, and it seems to glow with an internal fire of its own. It is so remarkable that it has become one of the worlds most cherished jewels. Guess what, the Black Princes Ruby really isn't a ruby at all.. Its actually a Red Spinel. This Black Princes Ruby is by far the worlds most famous Red Spinel, it is definitely not the only one ever possessed or coveted by kings, queens, and emperors. The Timur Ruby, also in the Crown Jewels of England, is even larger, weighing 361 carats, or more than 70 grams. It is inscribed with the names of six of its former owners. The Kremlin Museum in Moscow has another giant Red Spinel that probably belonged to the Tsar; this one weighs 414 carats.  The most dazzling collection of fine red spinels is found in the Crown Jewels of Iran. The largest one is around 500 carats, and the biggest on record. There are a handful of others weighing over 100 carats, a few with the name of Jahangir, a Mogul emperor over 350 years ago. Once you have seen a fine Red Spinel, you will easily understand why ancient royalty esteemed it as much as Ruby, and sometimes even more. Top quality Red Spinels and Rubies have superb pure red colors, and they have a fluorescence, or a glow, in natural light. Not only do the two gems have the same color and fluorescence, but they are often found together in the same mines, and rubys physical properties are very similar to spinels.  Today Red Spinel is not as abundant as Ruby, in fact it is quite difficult to find. The old mines in Afghanistan that produced so many of the giant stones in the past are worked out, and the gem gravels of Sri Lanka and Africa, which give up many beautiful pastel colored spinels, only rarely contain gems with the pure intense red color of the Black Princes Ruby.  Now only the famous mines of Mogok, Burma, hold substantial quantities of fine Red Spinels.  No one really knows how many gems remain there undiscovered, but perhaps there is still one that will rival even the Black Princes Ruby and remind us all of the days when kings and emperors held sway over vast domains and counted their wealth by the natural beauty that they owned.  Fine Red Spinels are less costly per carat  than Fine Ruby, but as with Ruby, the larger and redder the Spinel, the higher the cost per carat. Our stones are priced according to the size and the depth of color. They are transparent and eye clean.

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TANZANITE

THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER
Tanzanite is so hot it is the first gem added to the birthstone list since 1912
The 24th ANNIVERSARY STONE

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TOPAZ

THE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)
THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER (Blue)
The 4th ANNIVERSARY STONE

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TOURMALINE

THE BIRTHSTONE for MAY (Green)
THE BIRTHSTONE for JULY (Red)
THE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)
The 8th ANNIVERSARY STONE

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ZIRCON

THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER

. Gem Cuts

Compare mm to inches Here 1mm = .039" under 1/16" 2mm = .079" over 1/16" 3mm = .118" approx 1/8" 4mm = .158" under 5/32" 5mm = .197" over 3/16" 6mm = .236" under 1/4" 6.5mm = .255" over 1/4" 7mm = .276" over 1/4" 8mm = .315" under 5/16" 9mm = .354" under 3/8" 10mm = .394" over 3/8" 11mm = .433" under 7/16" 12mm = .472" under 1/2" 13mm = .512" over 1/2" 14mm = .551" under 9/16" 15mm = .591" under 5/8" 16mm = .630" over 5/8" 17mm = .669" under 11/16" 18mm = .709" over 11/16" 19mm = .748" under 3/4" 20mm = .787" under 13/16" 21mm = .827" over 13/16" 22mm = .866" under 7/8" 23mm = .906" under 15/16" 24mm = .945" over 15/16" 25mm = .984" under 1" 25.4mm = 1" exactly 1 inch 26mm = 1.024" over 1" 27mm = 1.063" 1-1/16" 28mm = 1.102" under 1-1/8" 29mm = 1.142" over 1-1/8" 30mm = 1.181" about 1-3/16" 31mm = 1.221" under 1-1/4" 32mm = 1.260" over 1-1/4" 33mm = 1.299" under 1-5/16" 34mm = 1.338" over 1-5/16" 35mm = 1.378" over 1-3/8" 36mm = 1.417" over 1-7/16" 37mm = 1.457" under 1-1/2" 38mm = 1.496" approx 1-1/2" 39mm = 1.535" over 1-1/2" 40mm = 1.575" over 1-9/16" 41mm = 1.614" approx 1-5/8" 42mm = 1.654" over 1-5/8" 43mm = 1.693" over 1-11/16" 44mm = 1.732" approx 1-1/2" 45mm = 1.772" over 1-1/2" 46mm = 1.811" approx 1-13/16" 47mm = 1.850" under 1-7/8" 48mm = 1.890" over 1/7/8" 49mm = 1.929" approx 1-15/16" 50mm = 1.969" approx 1-31/32" 50.8mm = 2" exactly 2 inch 51mm = 2.008" approx 2" 52mm = 2.047" approx 1-3/64" 53mm = 2.087" over 2-1/16" 54mm = 2.126 approx 2-1/8" 55mm = 2.165" over 2-5/32" 56mm = 2.205" over 2-3/16" 57mm = 2.244" approx 2-1/4" 58mm = 2.284 approx 2-9/16" 59mm = 2.323" under 2-7/8" 60mm = 2.362" approx 2-3/8" 61mm = 2.402" under 2-7/8" 62mm = 2.441" over 7/16" 63mm = 2.480" under 2-1/2" 64mm = 2.520" over 2-1/2" 65mm = 2.560" approx 2-9/16" 66mm = 2.598" under 2-5/8" 67mm = 2.638" approx 2-5/8" 68mm = 2.677" approx 2-11/16" 69mm = 2.717" over 2-11/16" 70mm = 2.756" approx 2-3/4" 71mm = 2.795" under 2-13/16" 72mm = 2.835" over 2-13/16" 73mm = 2.874" approx 2-7/8" 74mm = 2.913" under 2-15/16" 75mm = 2.953" over 2-15/16" 76mm = 2.992" under 3" 76.2mm = 3" exactly 3 inch 77mm = 3.032" over 3" 78mm = 3.071" over 3-1/16" 79mm = 3.110" approx 3-1/8" 80mm = 3.150" approx 3-5/32"

Types of Cuts for Gemstones
There is no general rule which can be applied to the various cuts. However, three groups or types of cut can be named: Faceted cut, plain cut, and mixed cut.
The faceted cut is practically applied only to transparent stones. The number of small even facets gives the gem higher luster and often a better play of color. Most facet cuts are built on two basic types, the brilliant cut and the trap or emerald cut. The plain cut can be leveled en cabochon (domed). This is suitable for agates and other opaque stones. In mixed cuts, the upper part is level and the lower part is faceted, or vice versa.
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Brilliant-Full cut or Round-Brilliant cut  This cut has been specially developed for the diamond. The word "brilliant" alone refers to a diamond, whereas, in the case of other gems, the mineral name should be given.. i.e... Round brilliant-cut sapphire. This cut has at least 32 facets, plus the table on the upper part, and 24 facets on the lower part. When there are less, it is called a "Round" cut".
Eight cut  This cut is also usually for the diamond, normally diamonds that are too small for a full cut. This cut has 8 facets on the upper and lower parts as well as the table on the upper.
Rose Cut and Half Dutch Rose  Are facet cuts without a table or pavilion that vary in the number and positioning of facets.  These are old cuts not normally used today since they do not produce much brilliance.
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